If you’ve just stepped into the world of lasers, you’ll quickly notice something: everyone talks about engraving, cutting, and marking as if they were the same thing. They’re related, yes — but they’re definitely not the same. And depending on what you want to make (wood signs, acrylic décor, stainless tumblers, jewelry, packaging…), choosing the right process makes the difference between a clean finish and a frustrating result.
So here’s a clear, practical explanation — written for real creators, small business owners, and anyone using a GWEIKE Cloud CO₂ laser or a GWEIKE G2 fiber laser. No jargon. No engineering lecture. Just what you actually need to know.
Three Processes, Three Purposes
Laser Marking — the “surface only” method
Think of marking as drawing on metal without digging into it. The laser changes the surface color (usually dark or rainbow effects), but the material stays nearly flat. This is what you use for tumblers, knives, tools, nameplates, jewelry, and anything that needs a neat, permanent ID.
- Depth: almost nothing (around 0.01–0.05 mm)
- Best materials: stainless steel, aluminum, brass
- Best machine: GWEIKE G2 fiber laser
Laser Engraving — when you want real depth
Engraving actually removes material. You can feel it when you touch it — the groove is there. This is what people love CO₂ lasers for: wood photos, leather logos, acrylic textures, rubber stamps, etc.
- Depth: usually 0.1–3 mm
- Best materials: acrylic, wood, leather, MDF, rubber
- Best machines: GWEIKE Cloud CO₂ laser (non-metals), GWEIKE G2 (metal engraving)
Laser Cutting — all the way through
Cutting is exactly that — the beam goes through the whole sheet, giving you separate pieces. If you’re making signs, ornaments, puzzles, inserts, packaging, or acrylic lettering, this is your tool.
- Depth: the full material thickness
- Best materials: acrylic, wood, MDF, cardboard, fabric
- Best machine: GWEIKE Cloud CO₂ laser
A Quick Visual Explanation
Here’s the simplest way to think about the depth difference:
| Process | What happens? | Depth | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Marking | Surface color change | ~0.01–0.05 mm | Metal logos, QR codes |
| Engraving | Material removed | ~0.1–3 mm | Wood photos, acrylic textures |
| Cutting | Full cut-through | Entire thickness | Signs, letters, shapes |
Once you understand this table, most “which laser do I need?” questions become easy.
CO₂ vs Fiber: Why Two Types of Lasers?
If you browse laser groups, you’ll always see this debate: CO₂ or Fiber — which one is better? The truth is, they’re not competitors. They’re two completely different tools.
| Laser Type | What it’s good at | What it doesn’t do well | GWEIKE Option |
|---|---|---|---|
| CO₂ | Engraving & cutting non-metals | Metal marking (not ideal) | GWEIKE Cloud |
| Fiber | Marking metals + high-speed engraving | Cutting acrylic/wood (not designed for it) | GWEIKE G2 |
So the short answer: Work with wood/acrylic/leather → CO₂
Work with stainless/aluminum/brass → Fiber
For more detailed analysis, see the article CO₂ vs. Fiber: When Do You Really Need Fiber — and When Is CO₂ Enough?
Which Process Fits Your Material?
Here’s a quick cheat sheet to help you decide instantly:
| Material | Mark | Engrave | Cut | Recommended Laser |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Acrylic | No need | ✔ Beautiful deep engraving | ✔ Clean polished cut | CO₂ |
| Wood / MDF | No | ✔ Very good | ✔ Very good | CO₂ |
| Leather | No | ✔ Logos / names | Limited | CO₂ |
| Rubber | No | ✔ Stamps | No | CO₂ |
| Paper / Cardboard | No | ✔ Light engraving | ✔ Cutting boxes/cards | CO₂ |
| Stainless steel | ✔ Perfect | ✔ Shallow engraving | Industrial only | Fiber (G2) |
| Aluminum / Brass | ✔ Very good | ✔ Good with proper settings | Industrial only | Fiber (G2) |
Real Examples (Based on What Our Users Actually Make)
→ Wood photo engraving (CO₂)
Probably the most popular project on the GWEIKE Cloud. You want engraving here — deep enough for texture, shallow enough to keep detail.
→ Acrylic night light or logo sign (CO₂)
Engrave the pattern, then cut the outline. This is the classic acrylic combo.
→ Stainless steel tumbler customization (Fiber)
This is where the G2 fiber laser shines. Clean marking, fast speed, and crisp details that won’t fade.
→ Jewelry tags, small metal parts (Fiber)
Tiny text? Serial numbers? QR codes? Fiber marking every time.
Which Machine Should You Choose?
▶ If you work with acrylic, wood, leather, MDF…
A CO₂ laser is all you need. It engraves beautifully and cuts clean shapes with polished edges.
Check out the GWEIKE Cloud CO₂ series.
▶ If you want to customize metal products…
You’ll need a fiber laser such as the GWEIKE G2. CO₂ machines aren’t designed for metal marking — this is exactly what fiber does best.
▶ If you run a small business
Many sellers eventually pair both:
- CO₂ for signs, décor, packaging, tags
- Fiber for metal accessories and products
It’s the most flexible setup for Etsy shops, craft businesses, and custom product studios.
Learn More (Recommended Next Reads)
- How to Make Rubber Stamps with a CO₂ Laser
- Can a CO₂ Laser Cut Stainless Steel?
- M-Series: A Practical 6-in-1 Fiber Laser Solution
- Fiber vs CO2 Laser Cutting: Which Fits Industrial Work?
Now that you know the difference between marking, engraving, and cutting, you’ll find it much easier to pick the right settings — and the right machine — for every project. Happy making!