If you’re looking at the GWEIKE M-Series 6-in-1 machine, you’ve probably asked yourself: “Do I really need a fiber module? Or can I do everything with CO₂ only?”
This guide is written for makers, small studios, schools, and side-hustle businesses. It uses real cutting and engraving data from our lab (not just theory) to show exactly:
- What jobs CO₂ handles perfectly on its own
- Where fiber becomes a must-have
- How to decide the right configuration for your M-Series
CO₂ vs. Fiber in One Minute
You don’t need to remember physics. Just remember this rule of thumb:
- CO₂ laser = Non-metal specialist + deep engraving on organic materials.
- Fiber laser = Metal specialist + welding + cleaning + metal marking.
On the M-Series 6-in-1 workstation:
- CO₂ module covers cutting and engraving of acrylic, wood, MDF, leather, rubber, paper, fabrics and more.
- Fiber module handles thin metal cutting, metal welding, rust/paint cleaning and metal marking.
The rest of this article uses our internal parameter tables to draw a clear line between “CO₂ is enough” and “you really want fiber”.
Where Fiber Is Non-Negotiable: 1–4 mm Metal Cutting
Let’s start with the one question everybody asks: “Can CO₂ cut metal?”
A CO₂ laser can mark or very lightly process metal with special sprays, but it is not a practical solution for real metal cutting. For that, you need fiber. Below is a simplified version of our handheld fiber cutting parameter table for the M-Series 800 W and 1200 W modules (nitrogen, 6–8 bar).
Real Cutting Speeds for 800 W vs. 1200 W Fiber
| Laser Power | Material | Thickness | Typical Cutting Speed | Gas | Pressure | Peak Power |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1200 W | Stainless steel | 1.0 mm | 18 mm/s | N2 | 6–8 bar | 65 % |
| 1200 W | Stainless steel | 2.0 mm | 12 mm/s | N2 | 6–8 bar | 75 % |
| 1200 W | Stainless steel | 3.0 mm | 8 mm/s | N2 | 6–8 bar | 85 % |
| 1200 W | Stainless steel | 4.0 mm | 6 mm/s | N2 | 6–8 bar | 95 % |
| 800 W | Stainless steel | 1.0 mm | 12 mm/s | N2 | 6–8 bar | 75 % |
| 800 W | Stainless steel | 2.0 mm | 8 mm/s | N2 | 6–8 bar | 85 % |
| 800 W | Stainless steel | 3.0 mm | 6 mm/s | N2 | 6–8 bar | 95 % |
Similar numbers apply to carbon steel, aluminum and brass in the 1–3 mm range. This is what “real” handheld fiber cutting looks like.
Decision rule #1:
- If you plan to cut 1–4 mm stainless, carbon steel, aluminum or brass on a regular basis, you need fiber.
- If you only want to mark a logo or serial number on metal, CO₂ with marking spray or a small marking machine might be enough.
Where CO₂ Shines: 3–25 mm Non-Metal Cutting
For most makers, non-metals are 90% of daily work: signs, displays, boxes, inlays, lamps, craft kits. Here the CO₂ module is your main workhorse.
Typical CO₂ Cutting Window (Acrylic Example)
Below is a simplified slice from our CO₂ cutting parameter table (laser power ≈ 90%):
| Material | Thickness | 40 W Best Speed | 60 W Best Speed | 80 W Best Speed | 100 W Best Speed | 130–150 W Best Speed |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Acrylic | 3 mm | 10 mm/s | 15 mm/s | 20 mm/s | 25 mm/s | 30–35 mm/s |
| Acrylic | 5 mm | 5 mm/s | 7 mm/s | 8 mm/s | 10 mm/s | 12–15 mm/s |
| Acrylic | 10 mm | – | ~3 mm/s | 5 mm/s | 7 mm/s | 8–10 mm/s |
| Acrylic | 20–25 mm | – | – | ~1–2 mm/s | ~2–3 mm/s | ~3–4 mm/s |
With the right air-assist and exhaust, the M-Series CO₂ module can deliver clean cuts on:
- Acrylic up to 20–25 mm
- MDF / plywood up to 12–18 mm
- Solid wood up to 10–12 mm (depending on species)
- Leather, rubber, fabrics, paper at very high speed
Decision rule #2:
- If your work is mainly acrylic, wood, MDF, leather, paper, rubber or fabric, a CO₂-only configuration is usually enough.
- Adding fiber only for decoration projects (no real metal cutting) is often unnecessary.
Engraving: CO₂ Owns 0.1–3 mm Depth
The third big question: “Can fiber do my engraving jobs?”
Fiber can mark metal surfaces beautifully, but for deep, wide, high-contrast engraving on wood, acrylic and other organics, CO₂ is still king.
Real Engraving Window from Our CO₂ Chart
This is a simplified slice from our CO₂ engraving parameter table (80 W vs. 130 W):
| Material | Engraving Depth | 80 W Power | 80 W Best Speed | 130 W Power | 130 W Best Speed |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Acrylic | 0.1 mm | 12–14 % | 400 mm/s | 10–12 % | 400 mm/s |
| Acrylic | 1.0 mm | 24–26 % | 400 mm/s | 20–22 % | 400 mm/s |
| MDF (high density) | 0.5 mm | 22–24 % | 400 mm/s | 18–20 % | 400 mm/s |
| Leather | 0.5–1.0 mm | 22–26 % | 400 mm/s | 18–22 % | 400 mm/s |
| Rubber | 0.5–1.0 mm | 22–26 % | 400 mm/s | 18–22 % | 400 mm/s |
This is exactly the kind of engraving depth you want for:
- Signage and logo plates (acrylic / MDF)
- Gift items and personalization on wood
- Leather patches, wallets, belts
- Rubber stamps and print blocks
Decision rule #3:
- If engraving is a big part of your business (signs, customization, stamps), you definitely need the CO₂ module.
- Fiber is a bonus for metal marking, but it cannot replace CO₂ engraving on non-metals.
Quick Checklist: Do You Need Fiber on Your M-Series?
Use this simple checklist to decide:
If you mostly say “Yes” to these, CO₂ is enough:
- “I make signs, displays, boxes, décor or gifts from acrylic, wood, MDF, leather or paper.”
- “I care a lot about engraving quality and large engraved areas.”
- “I don’t need to cut through metal plates.”
If you mostly say “Yes” to these, add fiber:
- “I need to cut 1–4 mm stainless, carbon steel, aluminum or brass.”
- “I want to weld metal frames, brackets or sheet metal.”
- “I need to remove rust/paint or clean welds on metal parts.”
- “I want durable metal markings on tools, knives, nameplates or tags.”
Many workshops choose a CO₂ + fiber configuration so they can cover both directions: non-metal crafts and light metal fabrication on a single 6-in-1 platform.
Configure your M-Series 6-in-1 now >
Typical User Scenarios
Scenario A: Acrylic Sign Shop & LED Displays
You cut a lot of 3–15 mm acrylic, engrave logos and graphics, maybe make edge-lit signs.
Recommendation: CO₂-only M-Series is enough. Fiber is nice to have only if you plan to add metal nameplates or hardware later.
Scenario B: Craft Studio / Online Store (Wood, Leather, Gifts)
You sell phone stands, boxes, coasters, leather goods, earrings, décor.
Recommendation: CO₂-only is the best starting point. You can always add fiber later if you expand into metal.
Scenario C: Small Metal Workshop + Custom Parts
You already have metalworking tools and want to cut 1–4 mm stainless or carbon steel, weld frames and clean welds.
Recommendation: CO₂ + 800 W or 1200 W fiber module. CO₂ covers templates and fixtures; fiber covers cutting, welding and cleaning.
Scenario D: School / Makerspace
Students work on a mix of acrylic, wood, cardboard, and occasionally metal projects.
Recommendation: Start with CO₂. Add fiber if you have specific courses for metal fabrication or robotics frames.
FAQ:
Can a CO₂ laser cut metal on the M-Series?
Not in a practical way. CO₂ can mark coated metals, but it cannot cut 1–4 mm sheet steel or aluminum efficiently. For real metal cutting you need the fiber module.
Can fiber engrave wood or acrylic like CO₂?
No. Fiber is optimized for metals and some plastics. For deep, clean engraving on wood, acrylic, leather and rubber, CO₂ is the right tool.
What is the maximum metal thickness I can cut with the handheld fiber module?
In our tests, 800–1200 W handheld fiber handles 1–4 mm stainless, carbon steel, aluminum and brass at practical speeds. For thicker plates, we recommend a dedicated high-power fiber cutting system.
Is the 6-in-1 configuration overkill for a small shop?
Not necessarily. If you do both non-metal crafts and metal frames or hardware, having CO₂ and fiber on one platform actually saves floor space and simplifies workflow.
Can I start with CO₂ and add fiber later?
Yes. Many users start with a CO₂-only setup and upgrade with a fiber module when their business grows into metal work. Check the M-Series configuration options or contact our team for upgrade plans.