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Choosing between a CO2 module and a fiber module can feel confusing. This guide explains CO2 vs fiber laser engraver choices in plain English—so you can pick the right setup for real jobs.
Bottom line:
• If you need to cut metal sheet (1–4 mm), fiber is the right tool.
• If you mostly cut and engrave acrylic, wood, MDF, leather, rubber, paper, CO2 is usually the best start.
• If you do both (non-metals + real metal work), the most flexible choice is CO2 + fiber.
On this page
- Quick comparison (CO2 vs fiber)
- One-minute decision rules
- When fiber is non-negotiable (metal cutting 1–4 mm)
- When CO2 is the better tool (non-metal cutting)
- Engraving: CO2 depth vs fiber metal marking
- Cost, maintenance, safety, learning curve (real life)
- Simple checklist: choose your setup
- Common user scenarios
- FAQ
1) Quick comparison: CO2 vs fiber (what each one is “good at”)
Think of it like this: CO2 lasers love non-metals. Fiber lasers love metal. They overlap a little, but they are not the same tool.
| Job you want to do | CO2 module | Fiber module |
|---|---|---|
| Cut acrylic signs, display parts | Great (clean edges, fast) | Not the right tool |
| Cut wood/MDF/leather/rubber/paper | Great | Limited |
| Deep engraving on wood/acrylic/leather (0.1–3 mm) | Great | Not comparable |
| Durable metal marking (serials, tags, tools) | Possible with sprays (not ideal) | Great |
| Cut 1–4 mm metal sheet | Not practical | Great |
| Handheld welding / rust & paint cleaning | No | Yes |
2) One-minute decision rules (fast answers)
If you need to cut stainless/carbon steel/aluminum/brass (1–4 mm), you should choose fiber.
If your daily work is acrylic/wood/MDF/leather/rubber/paper, choose CO2 first.
If you want deep engraving on non-metals, CO2 wins. If you want durable metal marking, fiber wins.
3) When fiber is non-negotiable: cutting 1–4 mm metal
A common question is: “Can a CO2 laser cut metal?”
In real production, CO2 is not a practical way to cut 1–4 mm metal sheet. If you need reliable metal cutting, you need a fiber solution.
| Power | Thickness | Typical speed | Assist gas | Peak power (example) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1200W | 1.0 mm | 18 mm/s | N2 6–8 bar | 65% |
| 1200W | 2.0 mm | 12 mm/s | N2 6–8 bar | 75% |
| 1200W | 3.0 mm | 8 mm/s | N2 6–8 bar | 85% |
| 1200W | 4.0 mm | 6 mm/s | N2 6–8 bar | 95% |
| 800W | 1.0 mm | 12 mm/s | N2 6–8 bar | 75% |
| 800W | 2.0 mm | 8 mm/s | N2 6–8 bar | 85% |
| 800W | 3.0 mm | 6 mm/s | N2 6–8 bar | 95% |
These numbers are practical starting windows. Your best settings can change based on material grade, nozzle, focus, and gas setup.
Tell us your top 3 materials, thickness, and weekly volume. We’ll recommend a practical M-Series setup.
4) When CO2 is the better tool: non-metal cutting (acrylic example)
If you run a sign shop, craft business, or school lab, most daily jobs are non-metals. CO2 is built for that: it cuts clean and engraves well.
| Thickness | 40W | 60W | 80W | 100W | 130–150W |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3 mm | 10 mm/s | 15 mm/s | 20 mm/s | 25 mm/s | 30–35 mm/s |
| 5 mm | 5 mm/s | 7 mm/s | 8 mm/s | 10 mm/s | 12–15 mm/s |
| 10 mm | — | ~3 mm/s | 5 mm/s | 7 mm/s | 8–10 mm/s |
| 20–25 mm | — | — | ~1–2 mm/s | ~2–3 mm/s | ~3–4 mm/s |
Want proven starting points? See Acrylic engraving settings and MDF engraving settings.
5) Engraving: CO2 depth vs fiber metal marking (simple explanation)
Many people say “I want engraving,” but they mean different things:
- Deep engraving on wood/acrylic/leather (you can feel the depth) → CO2
- Clean metal marking (serial numbers, logos that last) → fiber
| Material | Depth | 80W power | 130W power |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acrylic | 0.1 mm | 12–14% | 10–12% |
| Acrylic | 1.0 mm | 24–26% | 20–22% |
| MDF (high density) | 0.5 mm | 22–24% | 18–20% |
| Leather | 0.5–1.0 mm | 22–26% | 18–22% |
| Rubber | 0.5–1.0 mm | 22–26% | 18–22% |
6) Real life: cost, maintenance, safety, learning curve
If you want this article to save you money, focus on four things people often ignore: cost, maintenance, safety, and how easy it is to get good results.
Cost (the “buy twice” problem)
If you buy CO2 but later you must cut metal every week, you may end up buying a second tool (or outsourcing). If you buy fiber first but your work is mainly acrylic/wood, you may still need CO2 for clean non-metal cutting and deep engraving.
Maintenance (what you deal with week to week)
- CO2: keep optics clean, manage smoke, and keep airflow strong (it matters for cut quality).
- Fiber: keep the working area clean and stable; for metal work, settings and gas setup matter for quality.
Safety (simple, important)
- CO2 on organics: smoke and fumes require good exhaust/filtration.
- Fiber on metal: bright reflections and hot metal require proper eye protection and safe handling.
- Always follow your local safety rules and run a small test before full production.
Learning curve (how fast you get “sellable results”)
CO2 is often the fastest path to clean cuts on common maker materials (acrylic/wood/MDF). Fiber is straightforward for metal marking, but metal cutting quality depends more on setup (gas, focus, travel speed).
7) Simple checklist: choose your M-Series setup
- I mostly work with acrylic, wood, MDF, leather, rubber, paper, fabric.
- I care about deep engraving and clean edges.
- I don’t need to cut metal sheet.
- I need to cut 1–4 mm metal sheet (stainless, carbon steel, aluminum, brass).
- I want handheld welding or laser cleaning (rust/paint removal, weld cleaning).
- I need durable metal marking (tags, tools, serial numbers).
8) Common user scenarios (quick picks)
Scenario A: Acrylic sign shop
You cut and engrave acrylic every week. Pick CO2 first. Add fiber only if you start doing real metal work.
Scenario B: Craft studio / Etsy business
You make gifts, boxes, leather goods, décor. Pick CO2 first.
Scenario C: Small metal shop + custom parts
You cut 1–4 mm metal and may weld/clean/mark. Pick fiber (or CO2 + fiber if you also do non-metals).
Scenario D: School / makerspace
Mixed projects. Start with CO2. Add fiber when metal cutting/welding/cleaning becomes part of the program.
If you want one bench to cover both worlds, CO2 + fiber is the most flexible option. If you want the best ROI today, pick the module that matches your main material.
9) FAQ
CO2 vs fiber laser engraver: which one should I buy first?
If you mostly engrave and cut non-metals (acrylic/wood/MDF/leather), start with CO2. If you need real metal cutting or durable metal marking, start with fiber.
Can a CO2 laser cut metal?
CO2 can do special-case marking on coated metals, but it is not a practical solution for cutting 1–4 mm metal sheet. For real metal cutting, choose fiber.
Can fiber engrave wood or acrylic like CO2?
Not the same way. Fiber is optimized for metal workflows. For deep engraving on wood/acrylic/leather and clean non-metal cutting, CO2 is the better tool.
What metal thickness is realistic for handheld fiber cutting?
For many maker and small-shop jobs, 1–4 mm is the practical range. If you routinely need thicker plate, a dedicated high-power cutting system is usually a better fit.
Which is easier for beginners: CO2 or fiber?
CO2 is often easier for beginners on common maker materials (acrylic/wood/MDF). Fiber is straightforward for metal marking, but metal cutting quality depends more on setup (gas, focus, speed).
Can I start with CO2 and add fiber later?
Yes. Many users start with CO2 for non-metal production and add fiber when metal work becomes a weekly requirement.
Disclaimer: The parameter windows shown are practical starting points. Results vary by material grade, thickness tolerance, optics, focus, nozzle, gas setup, and safety/ventilation. Always run a small test matrix before production.